Pygmy Goats: My Guide to These Adorable Mini Farm Animals

Did you know that pygmy goats can jump up to 4 feet high? These pint-sized powerhouses are taking the farming world by storm!

As someone who’s raised pygmy goats for years, I can tell you they’re not just adorable. They’re fascinating creatures with big personalities packed into small bodies!

In this guide, we’ll explore the world of pygmy goats, their origins, care requirements, and why they might be the perfect addition to your homestead or hobby farm.

Get ready to fall in love with these miniature marvels!

What Are Pygmy Goats? Origins & Characteristics

So, what exactly are pygmy goats? Well, they’re basically miniature versions of regular goats!

These pint-sized farm animals originally come from West Africa, where they were bred for meat. Nowadays, they’re mostly kept as pets or for shows.

These little guys typically stand about 16-23 inches tall at the shoulder. That’s barely knee-high! They’re stocky little things, weighing anywhere from 50 to 75 pounds when fully grown.

One thing I love about pygmy goats is their coats. They come in all sorts of colors and patterns!

I’ve got a couple with solid black coats, a few with caramel-colored fur, and even one with a mix of black, brown, and white. Their hair is usually pretty short and coarse, which is great because it means less grooming for me!

Temperament & personality traits

If you’ve never been around pygmy goats, you’re in for a treat! These little guys are like the class clowns of farm animals. They’re curious, playful, and always up for some mischief.

Despite their mischievous nature, pygmy goats are generally pretty friendly and sociable. They love attention and can be quite affectionate.

Mine always come running when they hear me coming, hoping for treats or a good scratch behind the ears. They’re great with kids too, which is why many petting zoos keep them!

One thing to keep in mind is that they’re herd animals. They get lonely easily, so keeping at least two is best. A lonely pygmy goat is a noisy pygmy goat. And boy, can they be loud when they want to be!

Lifespan & maturity rate

When it comes to lifespan, these little guys can live quite a while if you take good care of them.

On average, they live about 10-15 years and mature quickly, too. Females can have their first kids as early as 12 months old, though it’s usually better to wait a bit longer.

Speaking of kids, pygmy goats usually have one or two at a time, though triplets aren’t unheard of. They grow quickly though, reaching their full size by about 2 years old.

One thing I’ve learned over the years is that while pygmy goats are smaller than standard goats, they still need plenty of space to roam and play. A small backyard just won’t cut it. They need room to climb, graze, and generally goof around!

Housing & Feeding

Next, let’s talk about taking care of pygmy goats.

Shelter requirements & space needs

First up, housing. Don’t think you can just stick your pygmy goats in any old shed! These guys need more than just a roof over their heads.

Pygmy goats need a dry, draft-free shelter that’ll keep them warm in winter and cool in summer. You can build a small barn with about 10-15 square feet per goat. This might seem like overkill, but trust me, they use every inch of it!

The barns will need good ventilation to keep the air fresh, but there should be no drafts. Pygmy goats can get respiratory issues if their shelter is too damp or drafty. Adjustable vents are great for opening in summer and closing up in winter.

Outside, you need plenty of space for these little guys to play. For every two goats, I keep mine in a paddock of about 50 x 40 feet.

They also love to run, jump, and play “king of the mountain” on any raised surface they can find. I built them a goat playground with some old tires and wooden spools. They absolutely love it!

Read more: Best Bedding for Goats in 2024: Top Materials, Pros & Cons

Fencing considerations

When it comes to fencing, Pygmy goats are like furry little Houdinis. If there’s a way out of their enclosure, they’ll find it!

A regular wire fence won’t cut it. I suggest getting a 4-foot-high woven wire fence with 4-inch square openings. It’s sturdy, and the small openings mean they can’t stick their heads through and get stuck.

I also strongly suggest adding some electric wire at the top and bottom. The top will prevent them from climbing over, and the bottom will discourage them from squeezing underneath.

For the best results, use high-tensile or aluminum wire and ensure the energizer maintains a voltage of 4,000 to 5,000 volts. Electric fencing helps create a mental barrier for the goats to learn to respect, provided it delivers a sufficient shock. You’ll also want to ensure there’s enough forage within the paddock to minimize their desire to escape.

Nutritional needs & proper diet

Regarding nutrition, I give mine free access to good quality hay, which should make up about 70% of their diet. They also get a small amount of commercial goat feed, about 1/2 to 1 cup per day for adults.

However, you can’t just feed them the same amount year-round. Their nutritional needs change with the seasons and their life stage!

For example, pregnant or nursing goats need more food, while your average adult wethers (castrated males) need less to avoid getting fat.

Treats

Treats are a whole other story. Pygmy goats love treats and are not shy about begging for them!

They’ll go nuts for apple slices or carrots. But you have to be careful! Too many treats can lead to health problems. I limit treats to small amounts, maybe a handful per goat per day.

Minerals

And don’t forget about minerals! These goats need access to a good goat-specific mineral mix.

Mineral blocks are not the most efficient. Offer them some good-quality loose minerals in a weatherproof container, as it’s easier for them to consume in adequate amounts. 

Water requirements & hydration

Goats need access to clean, fresh water at all times! I change their water twice a day, more often in hot weather.

In winter, you have to watch out for the water freezing. I use heated buckets to keep the water from turning into ice!

In hot weather, you’ll want to make sure their water doesn’t get too warm in the sun, or else they won’t drink it. I recommend using light-colored buckets instead of black and keeping them in a shaded area.

Remember, a hydrated goat is a happy goat! They need about 1-2 gallons of water per day, more if they’re pregnant or nursing. It could be a sign of illness if you notice your goats aren’t drinking enough.

Caring for pygmy goats isn’t rocket science, but it does take some know-how and a willingness to learn from your mistakes. With the right setup and care, these little guys are a joy to have around!

Common Pygmy Goat Diseases & Prevention

Regarding health, these little guys can be tough as nails one minute and delicate as flowers the next.

Common health issues

Here are the most common health issues found in Pygmy goats.

Parasites

A common health issue among Pygmy goats are parasites. These worms are a constant battle on my farm.

Don’t think you can deworm your goats once a year and call it good. You’ll have to do fecal tests regularly to check for parasite eggs. It’s not the most glamorous job, but it’s important!

I also rotate my goats’ pastures to help break the parasite life cycle and learned to use dewormers carefully, as overuse can lead to resistance!

Urinary Calculi

Another common issue is urinary calculi, which are basically bladder stones. They’re more common in wethers (castrated males).

To prevent urinary calculi, make sure your goats’ diet has a proper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (25.1:1) and constant access to fresh water. You’ll also want to include adequate roughage and limit excessive grain consumption. Trust me, it’ll make a big difference!

Pneumonia

Pneumonia is another one to watch out for. Pygmy goats can be prone to respiratory issues, especially if their shelter isn’t well-ventilated! Keep their barn dry and draft-free, especially in damp seasons like spring!

Vaccination schedule & parasite control

When it comes to vaccinations, it’s important to stay on top of things.

I give my goats a CD&T vaccine annually. It protects them against Clostridium perfringens types C and D (overeating disease) and Clostridium tetani (tetanus). I usually do this in the spring, before kidding season.

I give pregnant does a booster about a month before they’re due to kid. This helps protect the babies, too!

Parasite control is ongoing. As I mentioned, I do regular fecal tests.

I also watch my goats’ FAMACHA scores (that’s a way of checking for anemia by looking at the color of their inner eyelids). It’s a good indicator of parasite load. I deworm based on these tests rather than on a set schedule. It’s more work, but it helps prevent resistance!

Hoof care & maintenance

Hoof care is super important for pygmy goats. Their little feet can grow like crazy if you don’t keep them trimmed!

The last thing you want is an overgrown hoof that starts to curl under. This makes walking for goats uncomfortable and can take several trimmings to return to normal.

I check and trim hooves every 6-8 weeks. It’s like a little pedicure party! I’ve got this special pair of hoof trimmers that make the job easier.

Signs of a healthy vs. sick pygmy goat

So, how do you know if your pygmy goat is healthy?

A healthy goat is alert and active. They should have bright eyes, a shiny coat, and a good appetite. They’ll be curious about their surroundings and interested in what’s happening.

If you see a goat hanging back from the herd, not eating, or just seeming “off,” that’s a red flag!

Signs of illness can include things like:

• Bloating
• Diarrhea
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Unusual behavior
• Isolation
• Dull, rough coat
• Hunched posture
• Tail hanging limp
• Coughing or nasal discharge
• Difficulty breathing
• Unusual vocalizations (persistent, loud bleating)
• Grinding teeth (sign of pain)
• Fever or abnormal temperature
• Changes in urination or defecation
• Swollen joints or limping

The key is knowing your goats’ normal behavior to spot something wrong!

One thing I’ve learned is to trust my gut. If something seems off with one of my goats, even if I can’t put my finger on what it is, I’ll keep a close eye on them or call the vet. It’s better to be safe than sorry!

Speaking of vets, having a good one who knows about goats is super important! Not all vets are familiar with pygmy goats, so I had to do some searching to find one in my area. It’s been worth it, though—having a knowledgeable vet on call has saved me more than once!

Read more: 6 Easy Ways to Prevent and Treat Mites on Goats

Breeding Pygmy Goats: What You Need to Know

Let’s move on to the world of pygmy goat breeding.

Sexual maturity & breeding age

First things first: sexual maturity.

Does

Pygmy goats hit puberty pretty early, usually around 3-4 months old. But just because they can breed doesn’t mean they should. Breeding a doe too young will be rough on her.

I recommend waiting until they’re at least a year old, preferably 18 months. This gives them time to grow close to their adult size before they take on the stress of pregnancy.

Bucks

Bucks (boy goats) can potentially breed as young as 7 weeks old. However, it’s best to wait until they are 6-12 months old before using them for breeding. It gives them time to develop fully and trust me; you want a mature buck when it comes time for breeding!

The key is ensuring the doe and buck are physically mature enough before breeding. Breeding too young can lead to complications.

Gestation period & kidding process

The gestation period for pygmy goats is about 150 days, give or take a few. That’s roughly five months of pregnancy.

3 Stages of Kidding

The actual kidding process is both exciting and nerve-wracking. Some does will pop those kids out like they’re nothing, and others will have you on the edge of your seat for hours.

Here are the kidding stages:

1. Preparation Stage: This initial phase can last 4 to 12 hours, during which the doe becomes restless and her cervix dilates.
2. Delivery Stage: This stage typically lasts less than an hour for mature does. It involves the appearance of the water sac, followed by the delivery of the kid. If complications arise, assistance may be necessary.
3. Afterbirth Stage: This final phase involves the expulsion of the placenta and can take anywhere from 1 to 8 hours after the kids are born.

Most of the time, they can handle it independently, but it’s important to be there just in case complications arise, such as abnormal positioning of the kid or prolonged labor.

Care for pregnant does & newborn kids

Caring for pregnant does is a whole other ball game! As they get closer to their due date, their nutritional needs change.

I gradually increase their feed (especially in the last 4-6 weeks of gestation) and ensure they get plenty of calcium. Adequate calcium intake is particularly crucial to prevent pregnancy toxemia. I also make sure there’s a clean, dry area for kidding.

Newborn kids

Once the kids arrive, it’s all hands on deck! Newborn pygmy goats are about the size of a small cat and cute as a button, but they need a lot of care in their first few days:

• I make sure they get colostrum (that’s the first milk) within an hour of birth. It’s crucial for their immune system!
• I also monitor the umbilical cords closely. A little dip in 7% iodine solution helps prevent infection.
• I keep the newborns warm and dry, providing supplemental heat if necessary.
• I monitor the kids to ensure they are nursing successfully, as the weak kids may need assistance.

For bottle-fed kids:

• I feed small amounts frequently, about every 2-3 hours at first.
• I gradually increase milk replacer amounts as the kid grows.
• I start offering hay and kid starter feed around 2 weeks of age.

Proper care in these early stages sets the foundation for healthy, thriving goats. When needed, close monitoring and quick intervention are key to successfully raising newborn kids!

Genetic considerations & breeding goals

Genetics is where things get really interesting.

When you’re breeding pygmy goats, you’re not just throwing any old buck and doe together. You’ve gotta think about what traits you want to improve in your herd!

Traits

Don’t just think about the goat color you want. What’s more important are traits like conformation and temperament. Otherwise, you’ll have some beautiful goats with less-than-ideal body structures!

When it comes to getting the traits I want, my main focus is on these three things:

1. Overall health
2. Good conformation (body structure)
3. Temperament

I keep detailed records of each goat’s lineage and traits for the best breeding results. Sometimes, it’s like playing genetic chess, figuring out which goats to pair up for the best results!

One thing I’ve learned is the importance of genetic diversity. Inbreeding can lead to all sorts of health problems. Be intentional about bringing in new bloodlines regularly to keep the herd healthy!

Breeding goals

Breeding goals can vary depending on what you’re raising your goats for.

If you’re breeding for show, you’ll want to focus on meeting breed standards, which include:

• Health: Pygmy Goats should be hardy and good-natured.
• Conformation: The breed standard details specific body structure requirements, including a compact body, short head, neck, and legs in relation to body length.
• Temperament: Good nature is explicitly mentioned in the breed description.

For me, I’m more interested in producing healthy, friendly goats with good milk production. Your goals might be different, and that’s okay!

One last thing: be prepared for surprises. Genetics can be funny sometimes. Nature loves to keep us on our toes!

Pygmy Goats as Pets: Are They Right for You?

When I first got into pygmy goats, I had no idea what I was getting myself into. Well, it’s been a wild ride!

Pros of Pygmy Goats

Here’s what I love about my Pygmy goats:

• They’re absolutely adorable.
• They’re curious and playful.
• They’re really entertaining.
• They can be surprisingly affectionate and follow you around.

Cons of Pygmy Goats

But it’s not all sunshine and rainbows:

• They can be a handful.
• They’re escape artists.
• They can be noisy when they want something.

Legal considerations & zoning laws

Before buying pygmy goats, you have to consider the legalities. Not every area allows you to keep livestock (even if they are tiny and cute), so check your local zoning laws!

Even if goats are allowed, you may need to get specific permits or licenses. This often involves:

• Obtaining a unique herd number from the Animal Health and Veterinary Laboratories Agency.
• Registering for a County Parish Holding Number (CPH) from the appropriate government agency.

Legal requirements often extend to animal identification:

• Goats typically need to be tagged with a herd and unique individual numbers.
• Tags may need to be placed in both ears, or one ear tag and a tattoo may be required.

Keeping accurate records of animal movements is also usually mandatory:

• Animal Movement Licenses (AML) must be completed when moving goats.
• A Movement Record Book is often required to document all goat movements.

If you fail to comply with these regulations, it can lead to significant problems:

• Fines or penalties.
• Forced removal of the animals.
• Legal disputes with neighbors or local authorities.

That’s why it’s important to thoroughly research and adhere to local laws and regulations before acquiring pygmy goats!

Socialization & training

Training and socializing pygmy goats is interesting, to say the least. They’re smart, which is both a blessing and a curse!

Early socialization is crucial. You’ll want to make sure you handle the kids a lot from birth. This includes gentle touching, talking, and feeding. It makes a world of difference in how friendly and easy to manage they are as adults!

Companionship needs & herd dynamics

It’s important to remember that pygmy goats are herd animals. They need companionship to feel secure and content, and I don’t just mean human companionship! You’ll want to always keep at least two together.

They also tend to bond more easily with relatives and long-term companions, making it crucial to introduce new goats carefully. If not appropriately managed, they may view newcomers as competitors, leading to aggression.

Herd dynamics

The herd dynamics are fascinating to watch. They have their own little social hierarchy to reduce aggression and ensure resources are properly distributed.

There’s always a dominant female (“Flock Queen”) who leads the herd and makes decisions about foraging and resting spots. Meanwhile, the dominant male (“Top Buck”) plays a protective role and has breeding rights within the herd.

The goats display dominance through various behaviors, including head-butting and establishing physical presence. The new goats may fight as they establish their place in the hierarchy, but this is a natural part of their social structure.

The Versatile Pygmy: Beyond Cuteness!

Let’s touch on some of the hidden talents of these tiny powerhouses!

Milk production

Let’s start with milk production.

Pygmy goats are small, so they won’t outdo a full-sized dairy goat. However, they produce a surprising amount of milk for their size!

Pygmy goats generally produce between 1 quart to 2/3 of a gallon of milk daily, with an average production of around 1 to 2 quarts! That’s a reasonable amount for a small family.

Plus, the milk from pygmy goats is rich in butterfat, typically ranging from 4.5% to over 11%, which is higher than many other goat breeds! This makes for some killer cheese and ice cream.

It’s also worth noting that Pygmy goats have a shorter lactation period than standard dairy breeds, typically lasting around 120 to 180 days. This is significantly shorter than the lactation periods of dairy goats, which can exceed 305 days.

Regular milking (preferably twice a day) is essential to maintaining milk production. This helps sustain the goat’s milk yield throughout its lactation period.

Meat production

Meat production isn’t typically the main reason folks keep pygmy goats, but it’s worth mentioning!

Pygmies are small for commercial meat production but can be a good home-use option. The meat is lean and mild-flavored.

However, the yield isn’t huge. You’re looking at maybe 20-25 pounds of meat from an adult pygmy goat. But it’s not a bad option for a small homestead or someone looking to reduce their environmental impact! Plus, they’re efficient feed converters, meaning they produce a good amount of meat for the amount of feed they consume.

Brush clearing & land management

But where pygmy goats really shine is land management. These little guys are brush-clearing machines!

If you let a pygmy herd loose on a pasture overrun with brambles and weeds, it’ll be cleared better in a couple of months than any weed whacker! They’re especially good at getting into those hard-to-reach spots and eating things other livestock won’t touch.

Pygmy goats in animal-assisted therapy programs

Something that really blew my mind was the use of pygmy goats in therapy programs. These little goats are naturals at it!

I like bringing a couple of my friendliest goats to nearby nursing homes and children’s hospitals. They’re great at lighting people up! They can even help kids with autism develop social skills and reduce anxiety.

Pygmy goats’ size (around 40cm high when fully grown) makes them perfect for this kind of work. They’re not as intimidating as larger animals might be, and they’re easy to transport. Plus, they’ve got expressive faces that seem to connect with people on a really deep level!

Of course, not every pygmy goat is cut out for therapy work. You need ones with the right temperament (calm, friendly, and patient). They’ll need the proper training, health checks, and adherence to safety protocols. You’ll also need to coordinate with healthcare providers to ensure the facility can accommodate animal visitors.

As you can see, Pygmy goats are so much more than just cute faces. They’re milk producers, land clearers, therapy animals, and even a source of meat. Talk about multi-taskers! Just when I think I’ve got these little guys figured out, they surprise me with some new talent.

Will You Be Investing in Pygmy Goats?

There you have it! The ins and outs of pygmy goats! From their jumping prowess to their potential as therapy animals, these little guys never cease to amaze me.

Whether you’re considering adding pygmy goats to your farm or just fell in love with their adorable faces, remember that proper care and knowledge are key to a happy, healthy herd. Once you welcome these miniature miracle workers into your life, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without them!

Thanks for reading my article on Pygmy goats! I hope you found it helpful. Remember: don’t hesitate to consult with local breeders or veterinarians to learn more about pygmy goats and how to care for them properly!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a pygmy goat a good pet?

Pygmy goats can make excellent pets due to their friendly and sociable nature. Their size is also manageable, making them suitable for various living environments. However, they thrive best in pairs or groups and require companionship to stay happy and healthy, so be prepared for the commitment of keeping multiple goats.

Are pygmy goats high maintenance?

Pygmy goats are generally considered low to moderate-maintenance pets. While they require daily care, including feeding, hoof trimming, and social interaction, their small size and hardiness make them easier to manage compared to larger livestock breeds.

How big is a full grown pygmy goat?

A full-grown pygmy goat typically stands about 16 to 23 inches tall at the shoulder, with males averaging 19 to 24 inches and females ranging from 18 to 22 inches. In terms of weight, they generally weigh between 50 and 80 pounds.

What is the lifespan of a pygmy goat?

The average lifespan of a pygmy goat is typically between 10 to 15 years, although some can live longer with proper care. Genetics, diet, and environment can influence their longevity, with some reports indicating they may live up to 22 years in captivity under optimal conditions.