How to Build a Chicken Run in 5 Ridiculously Easy Steps
Ready to give your chickens the freedom they deserve while keeping them safe from predators? You’re in the right place!
Did you know chickens with access to a well-designed run are happier and can produce up to 15% more eggs? That’s right! An adequately built chicken run isn’t just about safety; it’s an investment in your flock’s health and productivity!
As a fellow chicken enthusiast, I’ve learned that the secret to a successful run lies in the details. Today, I’m sharing everything I know on how to build a chicken run that’ll have your feathered friends clucking with joy!
Planning Your Chicken Run Layout

Each chicken needs at least 10 square feet of run space to thrive. And honestly, I’ve found that 15-20 square feet per bird works even better!
Let’s break down the exact space calculations you’ll need:
Chicken Type | Minimum Space (sq ft) | Optimal Space (sq ft) |
---|---|---|
Standard Chickens | 10 | 15-20 |
Larger Breeds (e.g. Jersey Giants) | 15 | 20 |
Bantams | 8 | 10 |
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Choosing the ideal location in your yard
Elevation is absolutely crucial when it comes to picking the perfect spot for the run in your yard.
You want a slight slope for drainage; otherwise, things might get muddy and cause potential health issues for your chickens. I recommend positioning the run on the ground at least 6 inches higher than the surrounding area.
Understanding local regulations & permits
But before you even grab that shovel, do yourself a favor and check your local zoning laws. Each municipality has different requirements, and trust me, it’s way easier to plan around these from the start than to modify them later.
Setbacks from property lines can vary widely. Some areas require only 2 meters (about 6.56 feet), while others may have larger setback requirements.
Height restrictions also vary. Some municipalities may have no specific height restrictions for chicken coops, while others might impose limits.
Some of these regulations can be quite specific and may include additional requirements such as:
- Minimum lot sizes for keeping chickens
- Maximum number of chickens allowed
- Coop size restrictions
- Regulations on feed storage and waste management
Always consult your local zoning office or municipal regulations for the most accurate and up-to-date information regarding chicken keeping in your area!
Determining run dimensions & shape
For the actual shape, I’ve found that rectangular runs typically work best. They’re easier to cover, simpler to build, and make better use of materials! Plus, chickens actually prefer to move in straight lines.
My current run is 12×24 feet for eight hens, giving them plenty of space to scratch and play. Generally, a minimum of 10 square feet per chicken is suggested for runs, allowing them enough space to forage and exercise without overcrowding.
You’ll also want to consider how your run connects to your chicken coop. The entrance should be at least 12 inches wide and 18 inches high.
If you make the door too small, your larger hens won’t be able to squeeze through! I use a Dutch-style door that’s 24 inches wide, which makes cleaning really easy.
Speaking of size, you always want to plan for future expansion! Design your run about 30% larger than you initially think you’ll need.
Essential Materials for a Secure Chicken Run

You’ll need materials for the fence, posts, roof, and doors to construct your chicken run.
Fencing options & recommendations
Having the right kind of fencing is essential for keeping predators at bay.
Half-inch hardware cloth is the gold standard (there are no substitutes!) I use galvanized staples every 4 inches and washers on the corners for extra strength.
Half-inch hardware cloth may be pricier than chicken wire (about $2-3 per square foot versus $0.50-1), but here’s the brutal truth:
Chicken wire was designed to keep chickens in, not predators out.
A determined raccoon can rip through it like tissue paper, and let’s not even talk about what bears can do to it!
Post types & materials
For posts, I’ve experimented with pretty much everything out there:
- Pressure-treated 4x4s: My current go-to, lasting 15-20 years when properly installed
- Metal posts: Great longevity but harder to attach hardware cloth to
- Cedar posts: Beautiful but expensive (running about $25-30 per post)
Different soil types, climates, maintenance, and wood quality can impact the lifespan of posts.
Sink your posts a minimum of 24 inches to prevent your entire run from leaning like the Tower of Pisa. In areas with freezing winters, you’ll want to go below the frost line (usually 36-48 inches).
Roofing materials
Unlike fencing, you’ve got several solid options for roofing:
- Metal Roofing: Known for its durability and resistance to weather elements, metal roofing is lightweight and aesthetically versatile. It requires minimal maintenance and can last up to 50 years or more.
- Synthetic Slate: This material mimics the appearance of traditional slate but is much lighter and easier to install. It offers good durability and cost-effectiveness, making it a popular choice for homeowners.
- Asphalt Shingles: While standard asphalt shingles can be heavier, lightweight versions are available. They are affordable and easy to install, though they generally have a shorter lifespan than other materials.
- Solar Roof Tiles: These tiles provide a lightweight roofing solution and generate energy, combining functionality with sustainability.
- Green Roofs: Comprising vegetation and a waterproof membrane, green roofs are another innovative option that provides insulation and reduces stormwater runoff while being relatively lightweight.
I’m the biggest fan of corrugated polycarbonate panels for chicken run roofing because:
- They let in light while blocking harmful UV rays
- They’re surprisingly durable (mine have survived multiple hailstorms)
- They’re lightweight enough that your structure doesn’t need extra support
Door & gate hardware selection
The real game-changer for me was discovering dual-action gate latches. You know those clever ones that you can open from both sides? Total lifesaver when you’re carrying feed buckets or water containers!
You also want to invest in quality gate hinges. Those basic zinc-plated ones from the hardware store will rust within a year.
Get stainless steel gate hinges. They’re about triple the price but will outlast your run!
Here’s my current hardware setup that’s worked like a charm:
- Stainless steel hinges ($15-20 each)
- Dual-action gate latches ($25-30)
- Carabiners as backup locks ($5-8 each)
- Eye hooks every few feet for hanging treats and toys ($1-2 each)
4 Tools Required for Construction

A chicken run is only as good as the tools used to build it! Here’s what I’ve learned about essential tools from building chicken runs.
1. Basic hand tools
Let’s start with the absolute must-have hand tools:
- A quality claw hammer (16-20 oz)
- Heavy-duty wire cutters (not those flimsy $10 ones)
- Two pairs of locking pliers (trust me, you’ll need both)
- A speed square (don’t skip this. Straight lines matter!)
- Post level (because crooked posts will haunt your dreams)
- Tape measure (25-footer minimum)
2. Power tools
Could you build a run without power tools? Sure, but here’s what I consider essential after that first exhausting manual build:
- Cordless drill/driver (18V minimum, with spare battery)
- Circular saw
- Impact driver (your wrists will thank you)
Manual post hole diggers work fine if you’re only building one small run. But if you’re setting more than 6-8 posts, rent a power auger. Just don’t operate one solo!
3. Safety equipment
I cannot stress this enough. Proper gear matters!
Here’s your non-negotiable safety list:
- Heavy-duty work gloves (not gardening gloves!)
- Safety glasses (get ones that don’t fog up)
- Steel-toed boots (dropping a post on your toe is no joke)
- Dust mask for cutting pressure-treated wood
- Ear protection when using power tools
4. Measuring & marking tools
For measuring and marking, I’ve found that carpenter pencils last longer than regular ones outdoors. Get yourself:
- 2-3 carpenter pencils
- Chalk line (blue chalk shows up best)
- Metal ruler (plastic ones bend and give inaccurate marks)
- String line for laying out your perimeter
- Marking paint for underground utilities
Mark your post hole locations with spray paint, then use an old plastic bucket lid with a hole cut in the center as a template. This keeps your spacing consistent and looks way more professional than eyeballing it!
One tool that’s often overlooked but super helpful is a good wheelbarrow! You’ll be moving dirt, gravel, and materials around constantly. I recommend getting a dual-wheel model. They last for years!
It’s also good to keep a 5-gallon bucket of basic tools (hammer, pliers, screwdrivers) just for chicken coop maintenance. Trust me, once you finish building, you’ll still need tools regularly for repairs and modifications. There’s nothing worse than trudging back to the garage every time you need to fix something!
How to Build a Chicken Run In 5 Ridiculously Easy Steps
Here’s how to build a chicken run in five ridiculously easy steps.
Let me walk you through building a chicken run, including that time I learned (the hard way) why you should always call utility companies before digging! Nothing quite like the adrenaline rush of narrowly missing a power line…
1. Mark & measure the perimeter
First things first: mark your perimeter.
Here’s my specific process, which works like a charm: Start by driving temporary stakes in each corner, then run a mason’s line between them.
And don’t just eyeball it!
Use the 3-4-5 method to get perfect 90-degree corners: Measure 3 feet along one string and 4 feet along the other. If your corner is square, the diagonal should be exactly 5 feet.
2. Install the corner posts & supports
For installing corner posts, here’s my tried-and-true method:
- Dig holes 24-36 inches deep (depending on your frost line)
- Add 6 inches of gravel at the bottom for drainage
- Place post and check for level on two sides
- Pour quick-set concrete without adding water
- THEN add water according to package directions
- Let it set for 24 hours minimum
Definitely invest in post hole diggers or rent an auger rather than a regular shovel. You’ll want holes about three times the width of your posts.
3. Set up the fencing materials
For the fence installation, start at a corner and unroll just a small section at a time to avoid tangling. Work in manageable 8-10 foot sections, securing as you go.
My current method for attaching hardware cloth:
- Staple the top and bottom loosely first
- Pull it taught using locking pliers
- Add staples every 4 inches
- Reinforce corners with washers
- Overlap seams by at least 3 inches
4. Add a roof structure
I use 2×4 rafters spaced every 4 feet for the roof structure, with cross supports every 6 feet.
For covering, I prefer corrugated polycarbonate panels with rubber washer screws every 12 inches into the rafters.
You should also leave about a 1/4-inch gap between roofing panels because they expand in the summer heat.
5. Install the gates & doors
Gates and doors are where details really matter.
Here’s my current setup after much trial and error:
- Frame the opening with 2x4s
- Use three heavy-duty hinges per door
- Install a diagonal support across the door frame
- Add rubber weather stripping at the bottom
- Include a kickplate to prevent sagging
Here’s a time-saving tip: pre-build your gates on a flat surface (like your garage floor) before hanging them. It’s so much easier than trying to assemble them in place! I use a carpenter’s square to ensure everything’s aligned properly.
Finally, test all your gates and doors before considering the job done. Open and close everything multiple times, check for gaps, and make sure predator-proof locks are working correctly. Nothing is worse than finishing a long day of construction only to realize your gate doesn’t quite latch properly!
And don’t forget about drainage! Slope the ground inside your run about 1 inch per 8 feet. If you don’t, you’ll get a muddy mess after every rain.
I also add a 4-inch layer of gravel beneath my runs, topped with construction sand. It makes cleaning so much easier, too!
Predator-Proofing Your Chicken Run
I take predator-proofing very seriously. Let me tell you exactly what I’ve learned about keeping our feathered friends safe!
Underground barriers
The underground game is where most runs fail. Here’s what I do after years of trial and error:
- Dig a 12-inch deep trench around the entire perimeter
- Install hardware cloth in an L-shape (down and out)
- Extend the horizontal part 18 inches outward
- Cover with soil and rocks along the edges
The L-shape is crucial because predators like foxes and coyotes try to dig straight down at the fence line. When they hit that horizontal barrier, they give up.
Always sandwich your hardware cloth between wooden boards at gates and doors. Just stapling it isn’t enough. One determined predator can pull it loose!
I use pressure-treated 1x4s screwed together with the hardware cloth between them.
skirt installation
For the skirt installation, here’s my proven method:
- Secure the vertical piece first
- Bend the hardware cloth at a 90-degree angle
- Staple the horizontal section every 6 inches
- Add heavy rocks or pavers along the edge
Reinforcing weak points
Every run has weak points, even if you don’t know what to look for!
The corners are particularly vulnerable. I reinforce mine with:
- Double layers of hardware cloth at corners
- Extra posts for stability
- Metal bracket reinforcements
- No gaps larger than 1/2 inch anywhere
Top covering options
For top covering, you’ve got several solid options.
I prefer using hardware cloth for the entire top to protect my chickens from hawks. But if predatory birds aren’t common in your area, you might use:
- Full hardware cloth covering (most secure)
- Shade cloth with hardware cloth around the edges
- Corrugated roofing with secured edges
- Mixed materials (solid roof near coop, mesh for rest)
Lock systems & security
Speaking of locks, forget about those simple slide bolts! Raccoons can easily figure these out.
Here’s a much more secure three-point locking system:
- Primary lock: Two-step latch ($15-20)
- Secondary carabiner clip ($5-8)
- Safety chain for overnight ($10)
Raccoons can also undo simple carabiners, so I use locking carabiners or add a small bolt through regular ones. Better safe than sorry!
Night-time protection measures
For night-time protection, I’ve developed a pretty thorough routine:
- Lock all main gates with multiple locks
- Check the entire perimeter before dusk
- Ensure pop doors are secured
- Leave a solar-powered motion light on
- Close any feed ports completely
One thing that’s been a game-changer is installing solar-powered motion lights around the run. Not only do they startle predators, but they also alert me to any nighttime activity. I got mine for about $25 each and mounted them on corner posts.
The last thing I’ll mention is creating a “double-door” entry system like those at zoos. It’s basically a small entry area with two doors, so there’s always one closed door between your chickens and freedom. Not only does this prevent escapes, but it adds an extra layer of predator protection!
Predator-proofing isn’t a one-and-done task. I inspect my run weekly for signs of digging, wear and tear, or attempted break-ins.
7 Chicken Enrichment Features
Chicken enrichment is like creating a playground for your feathered friends! You don’t want to make your run a bare prison yard.
1. Dust bath areas
Let’s start with dust baths because my chickens literally throw a fit if they don’t have one! Here’s my foolproof dust bath recipe that I’ve perfected over the years:
- 40% fine sand (play sand works great)
- 30% wood ash (from untreated wood only!)
- 20% diatomaceous earth
- 10% garden soil
Location matters for dust baths. I create designated dust bath stations in the corners using:
- Old tractor tires (cut in half)
- Large plastic storage tubs (drill drainage holes!)
- Repurposed kiddie pools
- Built-in boxes with cedar frame
2. Perches & swings
For perches, height variation is key! I’ve created what I call the “chicken jungle gym”:
- Natural branches (cedar or fruit wood) at various heights
- Secured rope swings (replace every 6 months)
- Ladder-style perches
- Platform perches for elderly birds
Check local tree services for branches. After a neighbor’s apple tree trimming, I got all my perching materials for free!
3. Shade structures
Shade is crucial, especially in brutal summer heatwaves. My current shade setup includes:
- Shade cloth panels (70% UV block)
- Living grape vines on trellises
- Corrugated roof sections
- Removable canvas tarps for seasonal adjustment
4. Rain protection
Wet chickens are unhappy chickens. I’ve added:
- Angled roof extensions
- Rain guards over feeding areas
- Covered “loafing” areas
- Raised platform under shelter
5. Natural foraging opportunities
For foraging opportunities, I’ve gotten pretty creative over the years. The key is to make them work for their treats (keeps them busy and healthier!):
- Hanging cabbage tetherball
- PVC pipe treat dispensers
- Scatter feeding areas with straw
- Buried treat boxes with lids
6. “Chunnels”
One addition I created is what I call “chicken tunnels” (or “chunnels”). It’s basically curved PVC pipes partially buried in the ground. The girls love running through them, and they double as shelter during rain!
7. “Salad Bar”
The biggest hit in my run is the “salad bar” I created:
- Raised planter boxes at chicken height
- Quick-growing greens like lettuce and wheat grass
- Protected root vegetables they can scratch for
- Herb garden (they love fresh oregano!)
I rotate toys and accessories monthly to keep things interesting. I also switch things up every season:
- Summer misters near dust baths
- Winter “greenhouse” area with clear roofing
- Removable wind barriers
- Seasonal treat dispensers
Chicken enrichment isn’t just about fun. It’s about creating an environment that lets chickens be chickens!
When I added these features, egg production increased, fighting decreased, and my girls were noticeably happier. It was worth every minute of planning and every dollar spent!
How to Build a Chicken Run: See How Easy It Is?
See? Building a chicken run doesn’t have to be a daunting task! With proper planning and the right materials, you can create a safe and enriching outdoor space that your chickens will absolutely love.
A well-built run is your first line of defense against predators while giving your flock the freedom to scratch, peck, and enjoy the fresh air. Whether you’re a first-time builder or upgrading an existing setup, these guidelines will help you create a functional and secure run.
So grab your tools and get ready to build! Your chickens are counting on you for their outdoor paradise!
Happy building, and may your flock thrive in their new space!
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do you make a simple chicken run?
To build a simple chicken run, start by planning the dimensions and materials, ensuring a minimum size of 10 square feet per chicken. Next, gather supplies like wooden posts, hardwire cloth, and staples. From there, dig holes at least 12 inches deep for the posts that will be six feet apart, attach the hardwire securely to the posts, and create a gate for easy access. You want to ensure the run is predator-proof by burying wire at least 12 inches at the base!
Is it cheaper to buy to build a chicken run?
Building a chicken run is generally cheaper than buying a pre-made one. While the cost to construct a chicken coop and run can range from $300 to $2,000, DIY projects often save you about half the price of ready-made options, especially if you use recycled materials and have some basic construction skills.
How many chickens can fit in a 10×10 run?
In a 10×10 chicken run, which provides 100 square feet of space, you can comfortably house 8 to 10 chickens if you follow the guideline of allocating about 10 square feet per bird. However, for optimal comfort and to prevent overcrowding, some recommend aiming for 15 square feet per chicken, limiting the number to around 6 to 7 chickens in that space.
How big of a run do 6 chickens need?
A run should ideally be 60 to 72 square feet for six chickens to provide adequate space for them to roam and engage in natural behaviors. This allows for about 10 to 12 square feet per chicken, ensuring they have enough room to move comfortably without overcrowding.