Easy Chicken Coop Plans for Beginners (2026): 5 Budget-Friendly Designs You Can Actually Build This Weekend

If you’re looking for a chicken coop project, you came to the right place.

Quick Chicken Coop Snapshot — Choose Your Plan in 60 Seconds

You’re here for plans, not fluff. Here’s your overview.

Plan	Capacity	Build Time	Est. Cost	Skill Level	Best For
Classic A-Frame	4-6 birds	1 weekend	$120-180	Beginner	Small flocks, mobility
Budget Pallet Coop	4-8 birds	1-2 weekends	$40-80	Beginner	Ultra-low budget, recycled materials
Predator-Proof Box	8-10 birds	2-3 weekends	$180-250	Intermediate	Cold climates, high-predator areas
Hybrid Mobile Tractor	10-12 birds	3-4 weekends	$250-350	Intermediate	Rotation grazing, larger flocks
Gable Roof Fixed	12-15 birds	2-3 weekends	$200-300	Intermediate	Permanent structure, resale value

All prices reflect early 2026 lumber and hardware costs. We update these quarterly.

Before You Build — Do You Actually Need a Coop?

I’m going to level with you. Not everyone needs to build a coop from scratch, and understanding what you actually need will save you time and money.

What’s the Difference Between a Coop and a Run?

A coop is the enclosed sleeping and egg-laying space where your chickens stay at night. It’s predator-proof, weatherproof, and usually elevated or built with a solid floor. Think of it as your chickens’ bedroom.

A run is the outdoor daytime exercise area, typically wire-enclosed, where your chickens roam during the day. It’s their backyard. Most runs have a dirt or grass floor and are covered with wire mesh on all sides.

Here’s what you need to know: most backyard chicken setups need BOTH. The coop keeps them safe at night, and the run gives them space to move during the day.

Do You Need Both?

Yes, in almost all cases. Even if you have 2 acres and plan to free-range your chickens, you still need a coop for nighttime predator protection. Raccoons, foxes, coyotes, and hawks don’t take breaks just because you live in the suburbs.

The one exception: if you have a secure barn or existing outbuilding with solid walls and doors, you may only need to add roosting bars and nesting boxes inside. In that case, you’d just build an attached run for daytime use.

Climate Matters (Especially in the Midwest)

If you’re raising chickens in cold-winter climates like the Midwest (zones 5-6), your coop needs more thought. Cold winters mean you need larger coops with better insulation and ventilation.

I’ve raised chickens through Iowa winters, and here’s the thing: you can’t skimp on coop size when temperatures drop below freezing for weeks at a time. Chickens generate body heat, but they need adequate space to stay warm without getting frostbite from moisture buildup.

This transitions naturally into why plan selection matters — which is exactly what we’ll cover next.

Related reading: Raising Baby Chicks

How Many Chickens Can Your Coop Hold? (Sizing Guide)

The most common beginner mistake isn’t building a bad coop. It’s building one that’s too small.

The Golden Rule — Space Per Bird

You need 4-6 square feet per bird inside the coop, and 8-10 square feet per bird in the run. That’s the minimum for healthy, happy chickens that actually lay eggs consistently.

Here’s how that translates to real numbers: if you have 6 hens, you need a coop that’s 24-36 square feet. That’s roughly a 4×6 to 6×6 foot structure. For the attached run, you’d need 48-60 square feet, or about an 8×8 area.

Flock-Size Quick Reference Table

Flock Size	Min Coop Size	Recommended Coop	Min Run Size
4 birds	16 sq ft (4×4)	24 sq ft (4×6)	32-40 sq ft
6 birds	24 sq ft (4×6)	36 sq ft (6×6)	48-60 sq ft
8 birds	32 sq ft (4×8)	48 sq ft (6×8)	64-80 sq ft
10 birds	40 sq ft (5×8)	60 sq ft (6×10)	80-100 sq ft
12 birds	48 sq ft (6×8)	72 sq ft (8×9)	96-120 sq ft
15 birds	60 sq ft (6×10)	90 sq ft (9×10)	120-150 sq ft
20 birds	80 sq ft (8×10)	120 sq ft (10×12)	160-200 sq ft

Notice the “recommended” column is bigger than the minimum. There’s a reason for that.

Why Crowding Fails

Overcrowded coops lead to feather pecking, disease spread, stress behaviors, and lower egg production. I’ve seen it happen, and it’s not pleasant to deal with.

Build for 1-2 extra birds beyond your current flock size. This gives you room to expand without needing to rebuild the entire coop in two years. A $20 investment in extra lumber now saves you $200 in rebuild costs later.

Related reading: Chicken Breeds — larger breeds need more space per bird

Plan #1 — The Classic A-Frame Coop (Best for Beginners & Mobility)

Why the A-Frame Works for First-Timers

The A-Frame design is the most beginner-friendly coop you can build. If you can cut a 2×4 and use a drill, you can build this.

It has a low center of gravity, which makes it stable and prevents tipping when you move it around the yard. The construction is straightforward — minimal cuts, basic assembly, and no complex angles to figure out. Plus, it’s mobile, so you can move it to fresh grass every few days, which keeps your chickens happy and your lawn healthy.

The peaked roof provides natural ventilation at the top, which is critical for preventing respiratory issues. This design comfortably houses 4-6 birds.

Materials List with 2026 Cost Breakdown

Here’s what you’ll need and what it’ll cost:

Lumber:

Four 2x4x8′ boards for the frame — $6 each = $24
Four 1x2x8′ boards for roof supports — $4 each = $16
Two sheets of 1/4″ plywood for nesting box and roof — $20 each = $40

Hardware:

1/2″ hardware cloth, 25 linear feet — $35
Roofing material (corrugated metal or shingles) — $25-30
Hinges, latches, screws, and nails — $15-20
Wood sealant or exterior paint — $10-15

Total estimated cost: $120-180

Check your local lumber yard instead of the big-box stores. I saved about 20% by going local on my last coop build.

Step-by-Step Build Guide

Step 1: Build the A-frame ends Cut two 2x4s to 6 feet each and join them at the peak to form a triangle. Repeat for the second end. Use 3-inch deck screws to secure the joints. This forms the basic structure.

Step 2: Connect the frame Use two 2x4x8′ boards to connect the front and back A-frames along the top ridge and bottom. Secure with 3-inch screws every 12 inches.

Step 3: Add the roof Attach 1×2 roof supports perpendicular to the ridge, spaced 12 inches apart. Cover with plywood, then add your roofing material (metal or shingles). Metal is lighter and lasts longer.

Step 4: Install hardware cloth Cut and attach 1/2″ hardware cloth to both triangular ends, leaving space for the door on one end. Use roofing nails or screws with washers, spaced every 4-6 inches. Overlap seams by at least 2 inches.

Step 5: Add ventilation Cut two 6×12″ ventilation openings near the roof peak on opposite sides. Cover with hardware cloth. This creates passive airflow without creating drafts at chicken level.

Step 6: Build the nesting box Attach a 12x12x12″ plywood box to the outside of one end, accessible via a hinged door. This keeps nesting separate from roosting space and makes egg collection easy.

Step 7: Install roost bar Mount a 2-inch diameter branch or dowel rod 18-24 inches off the ground inside the coop. Allow 8-10 inches of roosting space per bird.

Step 8: Add the predator-proof door Build a door frame using 1x2s, cover with hardware cloth, and attach with heavy-duty hinges. Install a secure latch — not just a hook-and-eye, as raccoons can manipulate those.

Build Time & Difficulty

You can finish this in one weekend — about 6 to 8 hours of actual work. I built my first A-frame in a Saturday afternoon, and I’m not a carpenter.

Skill level: Beginner Tools needed: Circular saw (or hand saw), drill with bits, tape measure, level, screwdriver

If you don’t own these tools, borrow them or rent for about $20-30 for the weekend.

Predator-Proofing This Design

Use 1/2″ hardware cloth, not chicken wire. Chicken wire keeps chickens IN, but it won’t keep raccoons OUT. Raccoons can tear through 1-inch chicken wire in minutes.

Bury the hardware cloth 6-12 inches underground around the perimeter, or use an L-shaped skirt (12 inches buried, 12 inches extending outward flat on the ground). This stops diggers like raccoons, opossums, and weasels.

Install a secure door latch — a simple bolt or carabiner works. Raccoons can manipulate hook-and-eye latches, so use a two-step mechanism.

Cold-Weather Modifications (Midwest)

I’ve wintered chickens in Iowa, and here’s what works for A-frame coops in cold climates.

Add removable foam insulation boards (1-2 inches thick) to the roof in late fall. You can cut rigid foam insulation to fit and secure with bungee cords. Remove in spring when temperatures rise above freezing consistently.

Caulk any gaps in the wood joints in winter, but don’t eliminate ventilation completely. Moisture buildup is worse than cold — it causes frostbite on combs and respiratory disease. Keep the peak vents open year-round.

Reduce ventilation, don’t eliminate it. Your chickens will be fine down to 0°F as long as they’re dry and draft-free.

Plan #2 — The Budget Pallet Coop (Best for Recycled Materials & Ultra-Low Cost)

Why Pallet Coops Work (and When They Don’t)

Pallet coops are the go-to option when you’re on the tightest budget possible. We built our first coop for under $50 using free pallets and scrap materials.

Pros: Free or dirt-cheap materials, fast assembly if you already have pallets, and there’s something deeply satisfying about building from recycled materials.

Cons: Pallet quality varies wildly, the structure is heavier than new lumber (harder to move), and you’ll get a shorter lifespan — about 3-5 years versus 7-10 for new lumber.

If you’re just starting out and want to test chicken-keeping without a big investment, a pallet coop is perfect. If you’re planning a permanent setup and can afford $120-180, go with Plan #1 instead.

Sourcing Safe Pallets

Not all pallets are safe for chicken coops. You need to check the stamp on every pallet before you use it.

Look for “HT” stamp — this means heat-treated, which is safe. Avoid “MB” stamp — that’s methyl bromide, a toxic chemical treatment. You don’t want your chickens living on chemically treated wood.

Where to find free pallets:

Grocery stores (ask the manager, especially smaller local chains)
Hardware stores and garden centers
Restaurants and breweries
Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace “free” sections

Inspect every pallet for rot, loose boards, and protruding nails before hauling them home. You’ll need 3-5 solid pallets for a basic 4-8 bird coop.

Materials List with Cost

Pallets & Wood:

3-5 pallets (HT-stamped) — free to $20

Hardware:

1/2″ hardware cloth, 30 linear feet — $25-35
Roofing material (corrugated metal or scrap shingles) — $20-30
Screws, nails, hinges, latch — $10-15

Total: $40-80

This is as cheap as you’ll get for a functional chicken coop. We spent $47 on our first pallet coop and it housed 6 hens for four years.

Basic Assembly Steps

Step 1: Disassemble or adapt pallets You can use pallets whole for walls (faster) or disassemble them for custom boards (more flexible sizing). I recommend using whole pallets for three walls and disassembling one for the fourth wall and door.

Step 2: Create the frame Stand three pallets upright to form three walls of a box. Secure corners with 3-inch deck screws, two per joint.

Step 3: Cover openings with hardware cloth Pallets have gaps — that’s the nature of the design. Cover every gap and opening with 1/2″ hardware cloth, secured with roofing nails or screws with washers every 4-6 inches.

Step 4: Build and hang the door Use pallet boards to frame a door, cover with hardware cloth, and hang with heavy-duty hinges. Install a secure latch (bolt or carabiner, not a simple hook).

Step 5: Add nesting box Attach a plywood or pallet-board nesting box (12x12x12″) to the exterior or interior. Make it accessible via a hinged lid for easy egg collection.

Step 6: Install roofing Frame a simple sloped roof using pallet boards or 2x4s, then cover with corrugated metal or scrap shingles. Slope it toward the back for rain runoff.

Step 7: Add ventilation and roosts Cut ventilation openings near the roof line and cover with hardware cloth. Install a roost bar 18-24 inches off the ground using a 2-inch branch or dowel.

Build Time & Difficulty

Plan for 1-2 weekends. Pallet prep takes extra time — you’ll spend hours pulling nails, cutting boards, and checking for rot.

Skill level: Beginner+ Capacity: 4-8 birds Tools needed: Same as Plan #1 (saw, drill, tape measure, level)

Predator-Proofing a Pallet Coop

Here’s the challenge with pallets: gaps between boards. You must cover ALL openings with 1/2″ hardware cloth — not just the obvious ones.

Check every seam, joint, and gap. Weasels can squeeze through a 1-inch opening, and raccoons will exploit any weakness. Bury a hardware cloth skirt around the entire perimeter — 12 inches out, flat on the ground, anchored with landscape staples.

Don’t skip this step. Predator losses are heartbreaking, and they’re preventable.

Longevity & Maintenance

Expect 3-5 years of service from a pallet coop, compared to 7-10 for new lumber. Weather exposure takes a toll on recycled wood.

Seal all exposed wood annually with exterior wood sealant or paint. Do spring and fall inspections for rot, especially at ground contact points and joints. Replace rotted boards as needed.

If you get four good years out of a $50 coop, that’s $12.50 per year. You can’t beat that ROI.

Plan #3 — The Predator-Proof Box Coop (Best for Cold Climates & Maximum Safety)

When You Need Maximum Protection

This is the coop you build when you live in a rural or wooded area with serious predator pressure, or when you’re in a cold climate like the Midwest and need a fort that protects your flock through zone 5-6 winters.

I built this design after losing three hens to a raccoon on our Iowa farm. It hasn’t been breached in six years. If you’ve heard horror stories about predator losses — or if you’ve experienced them yourself — this is your plan.

Predator-Proof Hardware Specs

This isn’t about “pretty good” protection. This is about building a structure that predators simply can’t penetrate.

Hardware cloth coverage: 1/2″ hardware cloth on ALL openings — windows, vents, door insets, floor (if raised). Not just most openings. ALL of them.

Burial depth: Bury hardware cloth 12 inches below ground level, then extend 12 inches outward in an L-shape. This stops diggers like raccoons, opossums, skunks, and weasels.

Solid roof: Use metal roofing with flashing at all seams. No gaps. Hawks and owls hunt during the day, and they’ll exploit any weakness.

Locking door: Install an auto-closer mechanism ($30-50) or use a bolt lock with a carabiner. Raccoons can manipulate hook-and-eye latches in seconds.

Fastener choice: Use 1/4″ fence staples or roofing nails to attach hardware cloth, not standard staples. Predators can pry up staples; they can’t pry up roofing nails.

Materials List ($180-250)

Lumber:

Eight 2x4x8′ treated boards for frame — $7 each = $56
Four 4×8′ sheets of 1/2″ plywood for walls and floor — $25 each = $100

Hardware & Roofing:

1/2″ hardware cloth, 50+ linear feet — $40-50
Metal roofing panels (6×8′ coverage) — $30-40
Insulation (rigid foam boards, 1-2″ thick) — $20-30
Auto-closer gate mechanism — $30-50
Flashing, screws, roofing nails, hinges — $20-30

Total: $180-250

This is the most expensive plan in this guide, but it’s also the most bomb-proof. You’re paying for peace of mind.

Step-by-Step Build

Step 1: Build a solid 2×4 frame Construct a 6×8′ rectangular box frame using 2x4s. Use corner braces and 3-inch deck screws every 12 inches. This is a load-bearing structure, so don’t skimp on fasteners.

Step 2: Attach plywood walls and floor Secure 1/2″ plywood to the frame for walls and floor. If you’re building on the ground (not raised), you can skip the floor and bury the hardware cloth perimeter instead.

Step 3: Install hardware cloth on all openings Cut window and vent openings in the plywood, then cover with 1/2″ hardware cloth secured with roofing nails every 4 inches. Overlap seams by at least 3 inches.

Step 4: Build the predator-proof door Frame a door using 2x4s, inset with 1/2″ hardware cloth, and hang with heavy-duty strap hinges. Install a bolt lock or auto-closer mechanism.

Step 5: Add the metal roof Frame a sloped roof (4-6″ rise over 8 feet) using 2x4s, then attach metal roofing panels with roofing screws. Add metal flashing at all seams and edges.

Step 6: Install interior roosts and nesting boxes Mount roost bars 18-24 inches off the floor. Build or attach nesting boxes (one per 3-4 hens) at floor level or low-mounted on the wall.

Step 7: Bury the perimeter hardware cloth Dig a trench 12 inches deep around the entire coop. Lay hardware cloth in an L-shape (12″ down, 12″ out), then backfill. This is the most labor-intensive step, but it’s non-negotiable.

Step 8: Add insulation Attach 1-2″ rigid foam insulation to the roof and north-facing wall using screws and washers. You can add or remove insulation seasonally.

Ventilation Without Sacrificing Security

Here’s the trick: you need airflow to prevent moisture buildup (which causes frostbite and respiratory disease), but you can’t create openings that predators can exploit.

Install passive ventilation with high vents on one side (near the roof line) and low intake vents on the opposite side. This creates cross-flow without drafts at chicken level.

Cover all vents with 1/2″ hardware cloth and add wind baffles (small angled boards) to prevent rain and snow from blowing in.

In winter, reduce ventilation by closing one set of vents, but never seal the coop completely. Moisture buildup is more dangerous than cold.

Cold-Climate Modifications (Midwest Winters)

I’ve wintered flocks in Iowa through -15°F stretches, and here’s what actually works.

Add 2-3 inches of rigid foam insulation to the roof and north wall in late fall. This cuts heat loss without reducing ventilation.

Caulk visible gaps in the plywood seams, but maintain your vent openings. Your chickens generate body heat — they need dry air more than they need sealed walls.

Raise roost bars to 18-24 inches off the ground so chickens sleep in the warmest zone (heat rises).

Use deep straw in nesting boxes — 6-8 inches — for insulation.

Orient your coop with the door and main wall facing south for passive solar warming during the day.

Build Time & Difficulty

Plan for 2-3 weekends or 20-30 hours of work. The predator-proofing steps (burying hardware cloth, installing auto-closers) add time.

Skill level: Intermediate Capacity: 8-10 birds Longevity: 10+ years with annual maintenance

Related reading: How to Raise Backyard Chickens

Plan #4 — The Hybrid Mobile Tractor (Best for Larger Flocks & Rotation Grazing)

What Is a Hybrid Tractor Coop?

A hybrid tractor combines a fixed coop section (for sleeping and nesting) with a mobile run on wheels. You move the entire structure daily or every few days so your chickens get fresh grass, natural pest control, and free fertilization of your yard or garden beds.

This design is for folks scaling up to 10-12 birds who want the benefits of pasture rotation without the hassle of building a full Joel Salatin-style tractor. The fixed coop section stays stationary while the run gets moved, which makes it easier to manage than a fully mobile structure.

Capacity: 10-12 birds Best for: Rotation grazing, larger flocks, gardeners who want natural fertilization

Materials List ($250-350)

Lumber for Coop Section:

Ten 2x4x8′ boards for coop frame — $6 each = $60
Two 4×8′ sheets of 1/2″ plywood for walls — $25 each = $50

Lumber for Mobile Run Section:

Eight 2x4x10′ boards for run frame — $7 each = $56
Two 2x4x8′ boards for axle mounts — $6 each = $12

Hardware:

1/2″ hardware cloth, 100+ linear feet — $80-100
Heavy-duty wheels (10″ diameter, set of 2) — $40-60
Axle kit or 3/4″ metal rod — $15-25
Roofing for coop section — $25-35
Handles, hinges, latches, screws, nails — $25-35

Total: $250-350

This is the most expensive plan in this guide, but you’re getting a coop that serves 10-12 birds with daily fresh forage access.

Step-by-Step Build

Step 1: Build the fixed coop frame Construct a 4×6′ coop section using 2x4s and plywood walls. This is essentially a smaller version of Plan #3. Include a sloped roof, nesting boxes, and roost bars. This section stays put.

Step 2: Build the mobile run frame Construct an 8×10′ rectangular frame using 2x4s. Reinforce all corners with corner braces and use 3-inch deck screws every 12 inches.

Step 3: Cover the run with hardware cloth Attach 1/2″ hardware cloth to all four sides and the top of the run frame. Use roofing nails every 4-6 inches. Overlap seams by 3+ inches.

Step 4: Mount the wheels Attach the wheel axle to the back end of the run frame (the end opposite the coop). Mount wheels using axle brackets or by drilling through a 3/4″ metal rod. The wheels should be positioned so the run tilts slightly forward when lifted.

Step 5: Connect the coop to the run Use heavy-duty hinges to connect the fixed coop section to one end of the mobile run. The coop should sit on the ground while the run can be lifted and moved via the wheels.

Step 6: Install handles Attach large handles (gate handles or custom-built grips) to the front of the run frame. These give you leverage when lifting and moving the structure.

Step 7: Add the predator-proof latch Install a secure latch where the coop and run connect. Use a bolt lock or carabiner — nothing a raccoon can manipulate.

Managing a Mobile Tractor

Move the run 3-6 feet forward each day. This gives your chickens fresh grass, bugs, and greens while spreading their manure across your property.

Watch for worn grass spots. If you see bare dirt forming, you’re moving too slowly — chickens will overgraze and compact soil if left in one spot for more than 2-3 days.

Check the hardware cloth weekly for movement wear. The constant shifting can loosen fasteners at stress points (corners, wheel mounts). Tighten screws and replace bent nails as needed.

In winter, you may need to reduce or stop mobility when the ground is frozen. That’s fine — just return to daily movement in spring.

Build Time & Difficulty

Plan for 3-4 weekends or 25-35 hours of work. The wheel mounting and hinge connection add complexity.

Skill level: Intermediate Capacity: 10-12 birds Longevity: 7-10 years with maintenance

Plan #5 — The Gable Roof Fixed Coop (Best for Permanence & Resale Value)

Why Choose a Permanent Gable Coop?

This is the coop you build when you’re thinking long-term. A well-built gable roof coop lasts 10+ years, adds property value, and provides enough space for a larger flock (12-15 birds) with an integrated run.

It also just looks good. If you care about aesthetics or if you’re in a suburban neighborhood where appearances matter, a gable coop with proper siding and a shingled roof looks like a backyard shed, not a makeshift structure.

Best for: Permanent setups, larger flocks, homeowners who value resale appeal

Site Preparation & Foundation

Unlike mobile coops, this structure stays put, so site selection matters.

Choose level, well-drained ground. If you build in a low spot where water pools, you’ll deal with mud, rot, and increased disease risk.

Orient the coop with the main door and windows facing south. This gives you passive solar warming in winter and morning sunlight for egg production.

Build at least 10-15 feet away from standing water or flood-prone areas.

Foundation options:

Paver base: Lay down patio pavers or concrete blocks to create a level, predator-proof base. This prevents burrowing and keeps the structure off the ground.
Gravel base: Dig down 4-6 inches, fill with gravel, and level. This provides drainage and stability.
Concrete slab (optional): Permanent but expensive. Only needed if you want the most durable option.

Materials List ($200-300)

Lumber:

Twelve 2x4x8′ boards for frame — $6 each = $72
Four 4×8′ sheets of 1/2″ plywood for walls — $25 each = $100

Roofing:

Asphalt shingles or metal roofing for 8×10′ coverage — $35-50
Roofing felt (underlayment) — $15-20

Hardware & Finishing:

1/2″ hardware cloth, 60+ linear feet — $50-60
Siding (T1-11 or similar) — $30-40
Doors, hinges, latches — $20-30
Paint or sealant — $15-25
Roosts, nesting boxes, screws, nails — $20-30

Total: $200-300

This is a mid-range price point for a structure that will last a decade or more.

Step-by-Step Build

Step 1: Build the 2×4 frame Construct a rectangular box frame (8×10′) using 2x4s. Build it standing-height (6-7 feet tall at the peak) so you can walk inside for cleaning and maintenance. Use corner braces and 3-inch deck screws throughout.

Step 2: Frame the coop and run sections Divide the structure into a 4×8′ coop section (enclosed) and a 6×8′ run section (open but wire-covered). Frame an interior wall between them with a door for chicken access.

Step 3: Build the gable roof frame Construct triangular gable ends using 2x4s (45-degree angles at the peak). Connect them with ridge boards and rafters. This creates the classic peaked roof.

Step 4: Install plywood and siding Attach 1/2″ plywood to the coop section walls, then cover with siding (T1-11 or similar) for weather protection and appearance.

Step 5: Cover the run with hardware cloth Attach 1/2″ hardware cloth to all sides and the top of the run section. Use roofing nails every 4-6 inches.

Step 6: Add the roof Cover the gable roof with plywood sheathing, then roofing felt, then asphalt shingles or metal roofing. Proper layering prevents leaks.

Step 7: Install doors Build a human-access door (full-size) for the coop section and a hardware-cloth-inset door between the coop and run. Install secure latches on both.

Step 8: Add predator-proofing Bury hardware cloth around the perimeter (12″ deep, 12″ out in an L-shape) or use a predator skirt. Install locks on all doors.

Step 9: Interior finishing Mount roost bars 18-24″ off the ground. Install nesting boxes (one per 3-4 hens) at low height with hinged lids for egg collection. Add ventilation vents near the roof line, covered with hardware cloth.

Long-Term Maintenance

Plan for annual inspections every spring and fall. Check the roof for leaks, inspect hardware cloth for rust or gaps, and tighten any loose fasteners.

Repaint or reseal the exterior every 2-3 years to prevent rot and extend the structure’s lifespan.

Do a seasonal deep clean in spring and fall — remove all bedding, scrub surfaces with a diluted bleach solution, and let it air out for 24 hours before adding fresh bedding.

Build Time & Difficulty

Plan for 2-3 weekends or 25-30 hours of work. The gable roof framing is the most technical part.

Skill level: Intermediate Capacity: 12-15 birds Longevity: 10+ years with proper maintenance

This is the coop you build once and have for a decade. If you’re serious about chickens and have the budget, this is the best long-term investment.

Essential Coop Features — What You Actually Need (And What’s Hype)

Let’s cut through the noise. The internet will try to sell you on all kinds of fancy coop features you don’t need. Here’s what actually matters.

Must-Have — Ventilation (Without Drafts)

Ventilation is the single most important feature after predator protection. Poor ventilation leads to respiratory disease, frostbite (from moisture buildup), and ammonia burns from manure gases.

Why it matters: Chickens generate moisture through breathing and droppings. That moisture needs somewhere to go, or it condenses on surfaces and creates a breeding ground for bacteria.

How to do it right: Install vents near the roof line on opposite walls to create passive cross-flow. Cover all vents with 1/2″ hardware cloth. Make sure vents are ABOVE roost height so chickens don’t sit in drafts.

Cost: $5-10 in materials, or free if you design vents into your roof structure during the build.

Must-Have — Secure, Predator-Proof Door

Your door is the weakest point in any coop design. Predators know this.

Use a hardware-cloth-inset door (not solid wood, which limits visibility and ventilation). Install a secure latch that requires two separate motions to open — raccoons can manipulate hook-and-eye latches, but they struggle with bolt locks or carabiners.

Upgrade option: An auto-closer mechanism ($30-50) is worth it if you travel frequently or if you’ve ever forgotten to close the coop at dusk. One forgotten night can cost you your entire flock.

Must-Have — Nesting Boxes (1 per 3-4 Birds)

Hens need a dark, low-mounted space to lay eggs. Nesting boxes keep eggs clean and make collection easy.

Sizing: 12x12x12 inches per box is ideal. Place boxes low (12-18 inches off the ground) so hens can hop in easily. Fill with 4-6 inches of straw or wood shavings.

How many: One box per 3-4 hens. For a flock of 6 hens, build 2 boxes. For 12 hens, build 3-4 boxes.

Cost: $10-30 in materials to build from scrap plywood.

Must-Have — Roost Bars (8-10″ per Bird)

Chickens don’t sleep on the ground — they roost on elevated bars at night. This is natural behavior and helps them feel safe.

Sizing: Use a 1.5-2 inch diameter bar (a branch from your yard works perfectly). Allow 8-10 inches of roosting space per bird. For 6 hens, you need a 5-6 foot roost bar.

Placement: Mount roosts 12-24 inches off the ground. Don’t place them directly above nesting boxes, or you’ll end up with poop in the egg boxes.

Cost: $0 if you use a branch, or $10-20 for a dowel rod from the hardware store.

Nice-to-Have — Automatic Door Opener

This isn’t essential, but it’s a quality-of-life upgrade I don’t regret.

An automatic door opener ($30-80) opens at dawn and closes at dusk based on light sensors or timers. This means you don’t have to be home at sunrise and sunset every single day.

When it’s worth it: If you travel, work irregular hours, or just want the convenience of sleeping in on weekends.

When to skip it: If you’re home every day and don’t mind the routine of opening and closing the coop manually.

Skip These (Save Your Money)

Here’s what you DON’T need, despite what Pinterest and backyard chicken influencers will tell you:

Interior painting — Sealant protects the wood; paint is purely aesthetic and adds no functional value
Fancy perches or ramps — A simple 2×4 works better than a $40 curved perch from a pet store
Complex locking systems — A $3 bolt lock is as secure as a $30 electronic lock
Excessive run height — 6 feet is plenty; building an 8-foot run just wastes materials and money

Put your money into hardware cloth, secure latches, and proper ventilation. Skip the Instagram-worthy decorations.

Related reading: Chicken Feeders — what you actually need for feeding your flock

Predator Protection 101 — Hardware, Setup & Regional Threats

I lost three hens to a raccoon in one night during my first year of chicken keeping. It was heartbreaking, preventable, and entirely my fault for underestimating predators. Don’t make the same mistake.

Midwest Predators Ranked by Risk

Not all predators pose the same threat. Here’s what you’re actually dealing with in the Midwest, ranked by risk level.

High risk (nighttime): Raccoons, opossums, foxes, weasels

These are persistent, intelligent, and will kill multiple birds in one attack (surplus killing behavior)
Active year-round, with peak activity in spring and early summer when they’re feeding young
Raccoons can open simple latches and tear through chicken wire

Medium risk: Coyotes, large dogs

Less common in suburban areas but devastating when they attack
Need solid run walls and buried perimeter protection
Most active at dawn and dusk

Daytime risk: Hawks, owls, eagles

Hunt during daylight hours, especially in open yards without cover
Can drop through an uncovered run roof in seconds
Most active in fall and winter when natural prey is scarce

Seasonal spikes: All predator activity increases in spring and early summer when parents are feeding young. Double-check your defenses in April and May.

Hardware Cloth — Why 1/2″ Mesh Is Non-Negotiable

Chicken wire (1″ mesh) does NOT stop predators. It keeps chickens in, but raccoons can rip through it in minutes. I’ve seen it happen.

Use 1/2″ hardware cloth for all coop and run openings. It stops raccoons, opossums, weasels, and even small snakes. Yes, it costs more ($0.20-0.40 per linear foot vs. $0.10 for chicken wire), but it’s the difference between protecting your flock and losing them.

Installation specs:

Overlap seams by at least 2-3 inches
Secure with roofing nails or 1/4″ fence staples, spaced every 4-6 inches
Never use standard staples — predators can pry them up

Cost: $0.20-0.40 per linear foot, or about $25-50 for a small coop

Burying Hardware Cloth (The Dig-Defense)

Raccoons, opossums, and weasels are diggers. If your hardware cloth only extends to ground level, they’ll dig under it.

The buried perimeter method: Dig a trench 6-12 inches deep around the entire coop perimeter. Lay hardware cloth in the trench vertically, then bend it 12 inches outward at the bottom to create an L-shape. Backfill the trench.

When a predator tries to dig at the base of your coop, it hits the horizontal hardware cloth “skirt” and gives up. This method is bomb-proof.

Cost: +$20-40 for extra hardware cloth and 2-3 hours of digging labor

Predator Skirt (The Lazy Alternative That Works)

If you don’t want to dig (I get it), use a predator skirt instead.

Lay 12-18 inch wide hardware cloth flat on the ground around the entire coop perimeter. Anchor it with landscape staples every 12-18 inches. Cover with mulch, rocks, or let grass grow over it.

When predators try to dig at the coop base, they hit the skirt and can’t get through. This works because predators dig at the structure edge, not 12+ inches away from it.

Cost: $20-30 for hardware cloth and landscape staples Time: 1 hour to install

Door Latches & Locks

A $3 bolt lock is more effective than a $15 hook-and-eye latch. Here’s what works:

Simple bolt + padlock: Costs $5-10, requires two separate motions to open (lift the bolt, open the lock). Raccoons can’t do this.

Carabiner clip: A climbing carabiner ($3-5) through a hasp works perfectly. Raccoons lack the thumb strength to open carabiners.

Auto-closer mechanism: $30-80, solar or battery-powered, closes the door at dusk automatically. This is your insurance against human error (forgetting to close the coop).

What NOT to use: Hook-and-eye latches. Raccoons can manipulate these in seconds.

Seasonal Adjustments

Predator behavior changes with the seasons. Adjust your vigilance accordingly.

Spring/Summer (April-July): Heightened predator activity as parents feed young. Do daily visual checks of hardware cloth, latches, and perimeter. Look for digging attempts, bent wire, or tracks.

Fall (August-October): Predators build fat reserves before winter. Reinforce any weak spots before denning season.

Winter (November-March): Frozen ground stops most diggers, but weasels remain active and can hunt under snow. Check for upper gaps near the roof line — weasels can squeeze through 1-inch openings.

Related reading: Best Animal to Protect Chickens — using livestock guardian animals as an additional layer of protection

Cost Breakdown — Which Plan Actually Fits Your Budget?

Let’s talk real numbers. You came here partly to answer “can I afford this?” — so here’s the complete picture.

Total Build Cost Comparison

Plan	Build Cost	Capacity	Cost Per Bird	Annual Maintenance
A-Frame	$120-180	4-6 birds	$20-45/bird	$20-40/yr
Pallet	$40-80	4-8 birds	$5-20/bird	$30-50/yr
Predator-Proof Box	$180-250	8-10 birds	$18-31/bird	$25-45/yr
Hybrid Tractor	$250-350	10-12 birds	$21-35/bird	$30-50/yr
Gable Fixed	$200-300	12-15 birds	$13-25/bird	$20-40/yr

The cost-per-bird metric is useful for scaling up. If you’re planning a flock of 12+, the Gable Fixed gives you the best per-bird value at $13-25 per bird. If you’re starting with 4-6 birds, the A-Frame at $20-45 per bird is your sweet spot.

Buy vs. Build — The Honest Math

Here’s the question nobody wants to answer honestly: should you just buy a pre-made coop?

Pre-made coop costs:

Basic models (4-6 birds): $300-800
Premium models (8-12 birds): $1,000-1,500+

DIY costs (from this guide):

Budget option (Pallet): $40-80
Mid-range option (A-Frame): $120-180
Premium option (Gable Fixed): $200-300

Savings by building: $150-500+ depending on the plan you choose

When to buy pre-made: You don’t have time, you don’t have tools, or you’re not confident in your building skills. That’s a legitimate choice, and there’s no shame in it. A $500 pre-made coop is better than no coop at all.

When to build: You’re on a tight budget, you enjoy DIY projects, you want a coop sized exactly for your flock, or you want to customize features (extra ventilation, specific predator-proofing, cold-climate modifications).

I built my first coop because I couldn’t justify $600 for a structure I could build for $120. Six years later, it’s still standing.

Hidden Costs (Don’t Forget These)

The materials list isn’t the full picture. Here’s what else you’ll spend:

Tools (if you don’t already own them): $50-150 one-time

Circular saw: $40-60
Drill kit: $30-50
Tape measure, level, screwdriver: $10-20
Or borrow from a neighbor/friend for free

Delivery (if you don’t have a truck): $20-50

Most lumber yards and big-box stores charge $20-50 for delivery
Or rent a Home Depot truck for $19 for 75 minutes

Mistake buffer: Add 10% to your materials budget

You’ll make a wrong cut, strip a screw, or buy the wrong size hardware cloth
Extra $20-30 saves you a second trip to the store

First-year supplies (separate from coop cost): $50-100

Feeders: $15-30
Waterers: $20-40
Bedding (pine shavings or straw): $15-30

Realistic total for your first flock: $200-300 all-in (coop + supplies) if you go with the A-Frame plan and already own basic tools.

Egg Payoff Timeline

Let’s get real: most of us don’t raise chickens purely for economics, but it’s nice to know the numbers work out.

Average layer production: 200-250 eggs per hen per year (in prime laying years)

Store-bought egg costs: $3-5/dozen for conventional, $6-8/dozen for pasture-raised organic

Your cost per dozen (homegrown): About $1-2 when you factor in feed and bedding

Coop + flock investment payoff: If you spend $200 on a coop and $100 on your first four pullets and supplies, you’ll break even in 8-12 months based on saved egg costs.

Years 2-5 are pure abundance at reduced cost. You’re feeding your flock, but you’re not paying $6-8 for pasture eggs anymore.

The real value: You know exactly what your chickens eat, how they’re raised, and the eggs taste better. That’s worth something no spreadsheet can capture.

From Plan to First Eggs — Your Week-by-Week Timeline

Don’t make the beginner mistake of starting your coop build two days before your chicks arrive. Here’s a realistic timeline.

Week-by-Week Breakdown (A-Frame Example)

Week 1: Planning and sourcing

Finalize which plan you’re building
Create your materials list (use the cost breakdowns from this article)
Visit your local lumber yard and price out materials
Gather or borrow tools you don’t own
Order chicks or find local pullet sources (do this NOW — spring stock sells out fast)

Week 2-3: Build the coop

Set aside a weekend (or two half-days if you’re building the A-Frame)
Follow the step-by-step build guide for your chosen plan
Install doors, nesting boxes, roost bars, and ventilation
Complete all predator-proofing steps (bury hardware cloth, install secure latches)
Total build time: 6-8 hours for A-Frame, 20-30 hours for Gable Fixed

Week 4: Finishing touches

Paint or seal all exposed wood (use exterior wood sealant or paint)
Allow 3-7 days for paint/sealant to cure and off-gas
Do a final predator-proofing inspection — check every seam, joint, and latch
Shake the structure to test stability

Week 5-6: Source your chickens

If you ordered chicks in Week 1, they should arrive now (chicks are typically shipped at 1-3 days old)
If buying pullets (16-20 week old hens), pick them up from a local breeder or hatchery
Pullets start laying within 2-4 weeks; chicks won’t lay until 16-20 weeks old

Week 7-8: Introduce hens to the coop

Set up feeders, waterers, and 4-6 inches of bedding (pine shavings or straw)
Introduce hens in the evening when they’re calm
Keep them locked in the coop for 24-48 hours so they learn “this is home”
Supervise their first few days in the run — watch for bullying or stress behaviors

Week 8+: First eggs

If you bought pullets (16-20 weeks old), expect first eggs within 2-4 weeks
If you raised chicks from Day 1, expect first eggs at 16-20 weeks of age (about 4-5 months)
First eggs are often small (pullet eggs) — production ramps up over 4-6 weeks

Best Season to Build

Spring (February-April): Best time to build

Weather is mild, no rain or snow delays
Hens you introduce in spring will be laying by early summer
Chick availability is highest in spring (hatcheries ship Feb-May)
Your chickens have 6+ months to settle in before their first winter

Fall (August-September): Possible but challenging

You can build in fall, but your first birds will arrive as winter approaches
Chicks hatched in fall won’t lay until the following spring (16-20 weeks puts you in winter, when daylight hours drop and laying slows or stops)
Better to wait until spring unless you’re buying adult laying hens

Winter (November-January): Don’t build

Cold weather, frozen ground, and short daylight hours make building miserable
Use this time to plan, research, and gather materials for a spring build

Start planning in January. Order chicks in February. Build in March. Introduce hens in April. Collect eggs in May-June. That’s the ideal timeline.

Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

I’ve made most of these mistakes myself. Learn from my failures and save yourself the headache.

Mistake #1 — Building Too Small

The single most common beginner mistake is building a coop that’s too small for your flock.

You start with 4 hens, but within a year you’ll want 6. Then 8. Chicken math is real. If you build for exactly 4 birds, you’ll be rebuilding in 18 months.

How to avoid it: Build for 1-2 extra birds beyond your current flock. A $20 investment in extra lumber now saves you $200 in rebuild costs later.

Mistake #2 — Chicken Wire Instead of Hardware Cloth

Chicken wire (1″ mesh) keeps chickens IN. It does NOT keep predators OUT.

I used chicken wire on my first coop run. A raccoon tore through it in one night and killed three hens. I found the wire shredded like tissue paper.

How to avoid it: Use 1/2″ hardware cloth on all coop and run openings. Yes, it costs $20-50 more. It’s non-negotiable.

Mistake #3 — No Ventilation (or Too Much Draft)

Two opposite mistakes with the same root cause: not understanding ventilation.

A sealed coop leads to moisture buildup, which causes respiratory disease and frostbite. A drafty coop leads to cold stress and sick birds.

The fix: ventilation WITHOUT drafts. Vents near the roof line (above roost height) create airflow without blasting your chickens with cold air.

How to avoid it: Install high vents on opposite walls. Cover with hardware cloth. Never seal a coop completely, even in winter.

Mistake #4 — Insecure Door Latches

Hook-and-eye latches are easy for humans to use, which is why they’re popular. They’re also easy for raccoons to manipulate.

I watched a raccoon open a hook-and-eye latch in about 10 seconds. They have dexterous hands and problem-solving intelligence.

How to avoid it: Use a bolt lock, carabiner, or auto-closer mechanism. Any latch that requires two separate motions to open (lift + pull, twist + pull) will stop a raccoon.

Mistake #5 — No Run Roof

Hawks hunt during the day. They don’t care that you’re in the suburbs.

I lost a hen to a hawk strike in broad daylight during her second week in an uncovered run. It happened in seconds.

How to avoid it: Cover your run roof with hardware cloth, chicken wire (it’s fine for overhead protection), or welded wire. If you can’t cover the whole roof, add visual deterrents like reflective tape or provide dense shrub cover inside the run.

Mistake #6 — Poor Site Selection

I’ve seen coops built in low-lying areas that flood every spring. I’ve seen coops built on the north side of properties that never get sun. Both are avoidable.

How to avoid it:

Choose level, well-drained ground
Orient the coop with the door facing south for passive solar warming
Build at least 10-15 feet from standing water
Pick a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade

Site selection costs $0 and saves you years of headaches.

Mistake #7 — Underestimating Build Time

Every plan in this article includes build time estimates. Add 25% buffer to those estimates, especially if you’re a first-time builder.

If the plan says “one weekend,” expect it to take 1.5 weekends. If it says “6-8 hours,” plan for 10 hours.

How to avoid it: Don’t start your coop build two weeks before your chicks arrive. Give yourself at least 4-6 weeks from start to finished coop.

Mistake #8 — Ignoring Winter Prep

If you live in the Midwest or any cold-winter climate, you can’t treat winter as an afterthought.

I had a friend lose a hen to frostbite because her coop had inadequate ventilation and moisture built up overnight. The moisture froze on the hen’s comb.

How to avoid it: Plan for insulation, ventilation, and cold-weather modifications during your initial build. Retrofitting in November when it’s already 20°F is miserable.

FAQ — Quick Answers to Common Beginner Questions

Can you build a chicken coop with no experience?

Yes. The A-Frame and Pallet plans in this guide need only a saw, drill, and screwdriver. If you can measure, cut a straight line, and drive screws, you can build a functional coop. Start with beginner plans (A-Frame or Pallet), not complex gable roofs.

How much does it cost to build a chicken coop?

$40-$350 depending on design, size, and materials. The Pallet Coop runs $40-80 if you source free pallets. The A-Frame costs $120-180 with new lumber. The Hybrid Tractor (largest capacity) tops out at $250-350. All prices include lumber, hardware cloth, roofing, and fasteners.

How big should a chicken coop be for 6 chickens?

24-36 square feet for the coop interior (roughly 4×6 to 6×6 feet). Allow 4-6 square feet per bird inside the coop, and 8-10 square feet per bird in the attached run. For 6 chickens, you’ll need a 48-60 square foot run area.

Can you build a chicken coop out of pallets?

Yes — see Plan #2 in this guide. Use only HT-stamped pallets (heat-treated). Avoid MB-stamped pallets, which are chemically treated with methyl bromide. You’ll need 3-5 pallets plus hardware cloth, roofing, and fasteners. Total cost: $40-80.

Do chickens need a coop AND a run?

Yes, in almost all cases. The coop is for nighttime protection and egg-laying (enclosed, predator-proof). The run is for daytime exercise (wire-enclosed outdoor area). Even free-range birds need a coop for nighttime safety from raccoons, foxes, and hawks.

How do you predator-proof a chicken coop?

Use 1/2″ hardware cloth (not chicken wire) on all openings. Bury hardware cloth 6-12 inches underground or use a 12-18″ predator skirt laid flat on the ground around the perimeter. Install secure door latches (bolt locks or carabiners, not hook-and-eye). Cover the run roof to stop hawks. See the full Predator Protection section above for detailed specs.

What direction should a chicken coop face?

South-facing is ideal. Position the main door and windows facing south for morning sun, which provides warmth in cold months and stimulates egg production. Afternoon shade from trees or structures prevents overheating in summer.

How many nesting boxes do I need?

One nesting box per 3-4 hens. For 6 hens, build 2 boxes. For 12 hens, build 3-4 boxes. Each box should be roughly 12x12x12 inches, placed low (12-18 inches off the ground) with straw or shavings bedding.

How long does a chicken coop last?

Pallet coops last 3-5 years. A-Frame and standard builds last 5-7 years. Predator-proof box and gable coops last 7-10+ years with annual maintenance (sealing, painting, hardware cloth inspections). Longevity depends on materials quality, weather exposure, and maintenance frequency.

When do chickens start laying eggs?

Pullets (young hens) begin laying at 16-20 weeks of age. Larger breeds like Brahmas and Orpingtons take longer (20-24 weeks). First eggs are often small (pullet eggs). Production ramps up to full size over 4-6 weeks.

What to Buy Next — Feeders, Waterers & Setup Essentials

You’ve built the coop. Now you need to stock it. Here’s what you actually need versus what can wait.

Essentials (Buy Before Hens Arrive)

Don’t bring hens home until you have these four items ready to go.

Hanging feeder: $15-30

Grandpa’s Feeders or Little Giant hanging feeders work great
Hanging feeders keep feed clean and reduce waste
A 10-pound capacity feeder serves 4-6 hens for 3-5 days

Waterer: $20-40

Nipple waterers ($25-35) keep water cleaner than trough-style
Trough waterers ($15-20) are cheaper but need daily cleaning
For 4-6 hens, a 1-gallon waterer is adequate

Pine shavings bedding: $8-12 per bag

Buy 2-3 bags to start (you’ll need 4-6 inches of bedding depth)
Pine shavings absorb moisture and odor better than straw
One bag covers about 12-15 square feet at 4″ depth

Straw for nesting boxes: $5-8 per bale

One bale lasts 2-3 months for a small flock
Use straw (not hay) — straw is cleaner and less prone to mold

Nice-to-Haves (Month 1-3)

These aren’t day-one requirements, but they make chicken keeping easier.

Auto-door opener (solar): $40-80

Opens at dawn, closes at dusk based on light sensors
Worth it if you travel or work irregular hours
I use the solar model — it’s been running for three years without a battery change

Dust bath container: $15-25

Or use a free tire, wooden box, or kiddie pool
Fill with sand, wood ash, and diatomaceous earth
Chickens use dust baths to control mites and clean feathers

Shade cloth for run: $20-40

Provides afternoon shade in summer heat
50% shade cloth works well — blocks heat without eliminating all light

Can Wait (Season 2+)

Don’t buy these until you’ve got a few months of chicken-keeping under your belt.

Heated waterer base (winter): $25-45

Only needed if you live in climates with sustained below-freezing temps
Prevents water from freezing solid
You can also just swap frozen waterers twice daily

Egg collection apron: $10-15

Convenient but not necessary — a basket works fine

Deep litter composting system: Free

Just stop cleaning out bedding frequently and let it compost in place
Add fresh bedding on top weekly, clean out 2-3 times per year
Creates nutrient-rich compost for your garden

Related reading: Chicken Feeders — detailed reviews and recommendations for different feeder types

Your Coop-Building Action Plan

You’ve read the plans. You’ve seen the costs. You understand the sizing, predator-proofing, and timeline. Now it’s time to pick one and start.

Here’s how to choose:

Choose the A-Frame if you’re a first-time builder, have 4-6 birds, want mobility, and your budget is under $200.

Choose the Pallet if you’re on the tightest budget possible, have access to free pallets, and enjoy working with reclaimed materials.

Choose the Predator-Proof Box if you live in a high-predator area, experience cold winters, or if safety is your absolute top priority.

Choose the Hybrid Tractor if you have 10+ birds, want rotation grazing benefits, and have intermediate DIY skills.

Choose the Gable Fixed if you’re building a permanent structure, value long-term investment and resale appeal, and want a coop that lasts 10+ years.

No matter which plan you choose, you’re joining a community of backyard chicken keepers who prioritize self-sufficiency, quality food, and the simple satisfaction of collecting fresh eggs every morning.

You’ve got this. Now go build something awesome. Your chickens are waiting.